Maintenance & Troubleshooting

Section A – Hood Canopy

Wipe down the interior and exterior of the hood as needed with a soft cloth and warm soapy water (liquid dish detergent is acceptable). Do not use acids, abrasives, detergents, solvents, or scouring pads. Stainless steel should be treated with a quality stainless steel cleaner such as Stainless Steel Magic® (Vent-A-Hood part number SS64). Follow all label instructions. Do not polish across the grain or in circles.

Real copper, real brass, and hammered copper hoods will oxidize and/or tarnish over time. Use a quality copper or brass cleaner such as Red Bear Copper Polish (Vent-A-Hood part number CP101). Follow all label instructions. Do not polish across the grain or in circles. Do not use acids, abrasives, detergents, degreasers, solvents, or scouring pads.

Section B – Blower Unit

WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury, be sure the blower is turned off in the hood before removing the shield(s) and blower housing(s).

The Vent-A-Hood® Magic Lung® blower captures grease by-products in the blower housing(s) and E-Z Clean blower shield(s). E-Z Clean blower shields require more frequent cleaning than the blower housing but individual cooking habits determine how often each item will need to be cleaned. High fat content foods and heavy cooking may require cleaning after each use.

E-Z Clean blower shields are easily removed for cleaning by pulling the E-Z Clean blower shield(s) toward the front of the hood being careful to keep the tray level if the hood has been recently used.

To remove the blower housing(s) and damper(s), first remove the E-Z Clean blower shield. The blower housing is removed for cleaning by unsnapping the suitcase latches (one on each side of the housing). Then, pull the housing forward and gently “tip” it downward to clear the blower wheel(s). The blower wheel(s) can be removed (if necessary) by using a 1/8″ Allen wrench or hex key. See Section C for details on how to clean the blower wheel(s).

Clean the shield(s), damper(s), and/or blower housing(s) in a sink of warm soapy water (liquid dish detergent) and let soak for a few minutes. Wash with a sponge or dishcloth, rinse and let drain before reinstalling. Alternatively, the blower housing(s) and E-Z Clean blower shield(s) may be placed into a dishwasher.

Section C – Blower Wheel

WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury, be sure the blower is turned off in the hood before removing the blower shield(s) and blower housing(s).

Regular cleaning of the blower housing should prevent grease accumulation on the blower wheel. If grease build up should occur, the blower wheel may easily be cleaned in place using a soft bristle toothbrush and a common degreaser such as Formula 409®. Take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel.

In instances where the blower wheel may need to be removed, follow the instructions below.

Removing the blower wheel requires 1/8 Allen wrench or hex key.  Longer T-handle products are available which may be better suited for certain tasks. There is a small set screw on the side of the hub of the wheel (B) that tightens up against a “flat” spot on the motor shaft. The set screw must be rotated ½ turn counterclockwise to remove the blower wheel. Insert wrench through the blades of the blower wheel and into the set screw. If the wheel is difficult to remove, the area where the motor shaft makes contact with the blower wheel hub may need to be sprayed with common penetrating oil such as WD-40®.

After allowing the penetrating oil to soak for a few minutes, push the blower wheel forward slightly, then gently pull the blower wheel off the motor shaft. Use caution to avoid bending or distorting the blower wheel and take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel.

A soft bristle toothbrush with warm soapy water may be used to clean the blades, or soak the blower wheel in warm soapy water. When reinstalling the wheel onto the motor shaft, make sure the set screw makes direct contact with the “flat spot” on the motor shaft. Slide the blower wheel onto the motor shaft as far as it will go, making sure the back of the blower wheel does not touch the motor mount screws protruding from the motor.

If the blower wheel is too far back, it will rub the motor mount screws, and if it is too far forward, it will rub the inside of the blower housing. Adjust the blower wheel slightly to find the correct front to rear location. Tighten the set screw (clockwise) to lock the blower wheel in the correct position.

NOTE: For hoods that have more than one blower wheel, make sure that white blower wheels are matched up with white motor rings, and black blower wheels are matched up with black motor rings. The hood will not perform properly if blower wheels and motors are mismatched.

LED Bulbs

Replace the bulb with a genuine factory replacement part (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1350).

1. Use caution when pulling down on the old bulb to prevent the springs from snapping back against your hand.
2. Once the bulb is hanging beneath the light panel, simply disconnect the old bulb from the harness via the quick connect adapter.
3. Remove and discard the wire and plug section from the harness on the new bulb. Connect the new bulb to the hood wiring harness via the quick connect adapter.
4. While securing the slack in the wires, feed the wires into the light panel and insert the new bulb into the panel opening. You will need to press the springs on the bulb far enough backward to be able to fit them into the light panel. Use caution when inserting the new bulb to prevent the springs from snapping back against your hand or the light casing.
5. Turn the power on at the service disconnecting means on the service panel and test all blower and light functions to ensure they are operating properly.

Fluorescent Bulbs & Starter

Non-covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist up and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken.

Covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, remove the plastic cover, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist down and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. Replace the bulb with an 18 inch, 15 watt T8 fluorescent bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1120). Hold the new lamp at each end and rotate it slowly into the sockets until it locks into position.

To remove the starter, turn the starter counter clockwise (when looking into the starter). Replace the starter with a FS-2 type starter (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1105).

Infrared Heat Lamps

To remove the bulb, turn it counter clockwise. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. If the light is difficult to remove, obtain a bulb suction cup from a lighting or hardware store.

Replace the bulb with an R40, 120 volt, 250 watt maximum infrared bulb.

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. For an island application, this is considered mandatory. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

• B100 Single Blower (300 CFM) – Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard electric and 4-burner gas or equivalent cooking equipment.
• B200 Dual Blower (600 CFM) – Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
• B200 Dual and B100 Single Blowers (900 CFM) – Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
• Two B200 Dual Blowers (1200 CFM) – Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
• T200 Island Dual Blower (550 CFM) – Island hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
• Two T200 Island Dual Blowers (1100 CFM) – Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.
• T400 Cluster Island Blower (1100 CFM) – Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely (i.e., NOT spring-loaded).

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.

Are the blower wheels paired with the correct motors and oriented in the hood properly?

Remove the blower housing as described in Hood Cleaning, Section B. White blower wheels should be paired with white motor mounts and turn clockwise. Black blower wheels should be paired with black motor mounts and turn counterclockwise. If the blower wheel is paired with the improper blower motor, the hood will not function properly.

Do the dampers open and close freely?

With the blower housing off (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the damper (flap) and ensure that it opens and closes freely. If it does not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the damper from opening. Screws protruding through the duct work are the most common obstruction. During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood. Screws that are used to connect duct work and transitions extend inside the duct work and may obstruct the damper from opening. During installation the damper could be pushed into the blower housing. If this is the case simply push gently up on the damper until it clicks past and above the housing. A damper should rest on top of the blower housing when not in use.

Is each blower wheel free of excess build-up?

With the hood in the off position, remove the blower housing and inspect each blower. If a blower wheel has excess build-up, with the hood in the off position, remove the blower wheel (see Hood Cleaning, Section C) and clean with warm, soapy water and non-abrasive sponge.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact your Distributor for additional service/suggestions.

If the hood is making a rubbing or scraping noise, check the following:

This may be caused by the blower wheel coming in contact with the front edge of the blower housing or rubbing the motor mount screws. Un-snap the latches on the blower housing (see Hood Cleaning, Section B) and make sure the housing is properly seated on the face of the motor housing. If the blower wheel is rubbing on the motor mount screws, the blower wheel will need to be repositioned on the motor shaft (see Hood Cleaning, Section C).

Section A – Hood Canopy

Wipe down the interior and exterior of the hood as needed with a soft cloth and warm soapy water (liquid dish detergent is acceptable). Do not use acids, abrasives, strong detergents, solvents, or scouring pads. Stainless steel should be treated with a quality stainless steel cleaner such as Stainless Steel Magic® (Vent-A-Hood® part number SS64). Follow all label instructions. Do not polish across the grain or in circles.

Section B – Blower Unit

WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury, be sure the blower is turned off in the hood before removing the grease pan.

The Vent-A-Hood® Power Lung™ blower captures grease by-products in the grease pan attached to the bottom of the blower. Cooking habits determine how often the grease pan will need to be cleaned. High fat content foods and heavy cooking may require cleaning after each use.

To remove the grease pan, un-snap the suitcase latches (one on each side of the pan). The grease pan may now be lowered from the hood.

Clean the grease pan in a sink of warm soapy water (liquid dish detergent) and let soak for a few minutes. Wash with sponge or dish cloth, rinse and let drain. Re-install grease pan and snap suitcase latches in place. The grease pan alternatively may be placed into a dishwasher.

Section C – Blower Wheel

WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury, be sure the blower is turned off in the hood before removing the grease pan.

Regular cleaning of the grease pan should prevent grease accumulation on the blower wheel. If grease build up should occur, the blower wheel may easily be cleaned in place using a soft bristle toothbrush and a common degreaser such as Formula 409®. Take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel. In instances where the blower wheel may need to be removed, follow the instructions on the next page.

Remove the grease pan as described in Hood Cleaning, Section B. Removing the blower wheel requires a 1/8” hex wrench. A T-handle hex wrench can be purchased from most hardware stores and many online retailers. There is a small set screw on the side of the hub of the wheel that tightens up against a “flat” spot on the motor shaft. The set screw must be rotated counterclockwise ½ turn to remove the blower wheel. Insert wrench through the guide hole (B) located next to the left blower housing latch, through the blades of the blower wheel, and into the set screw. Use caution to avoid bending or distorting the blower wheel and take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel.

A soft bristle toothbrush with warm soapy water may be used to clean the blades, or soak the blower wheel in warm soapy water. When reinstalling the wheel onto the motor shaft, make sure the set screw makes direct contact with the “flat spot” on the motor shaft. Slide the blower wheel onto the motor shaft as far as it will go, and tighten the set screw (clockwise) to lock the blower wheel in the correct position.

Note: All Vent-A-Hood products manufactured since 2016 use LED lighting. Some information below applies only to older, non-LED models.

Halogen Bulbs or LED Bulbs

To remove the bulb, turn it counter clockwise. If the light is difficult to remove, obtain a bulb suction cup from a lighting or hardware store. Replace the bulb with a PAR20 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1130) or with a GU10 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1111B) for newer models.

Fluorescent Bulbs & Starter

Non-covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist up and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken.

Covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, remove the plastic cover, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist down and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. Replace the bulb with an 18 inch, 15 watt T8 fluorescent bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1120). Hold the new lamp at each end and rotate it slowly into the sockets until it locks into position.

To remove the starter, turn the starter counter clockwise (when looking into the starter). Replace the starter with a FS-2 type starter (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1105).

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

• K250 Single Blower (250 CFM) – For standard electric and 4-burner gas or equivalent cooking equipment.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely.

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.

Does the damper open and close freely?

With the grease pan removed (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the damper (flap) and ensure that it opens and closes freely. If it does not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the damper from opening. During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact your Distributor for additional service/suggestions.

If the hood is making a rubbing or scraping noise, check the following:

This may be caused by the blower wheel coming in contact with the blower housing. Refer to Hood Cleaning, Section C for blower wheel installation details.

Section A – Hood Canopy

Wipe down the interior and exterior of the hood as needed with a soft cloth and warm soapy water (liquid dish detergent is acceptable). Do not use acids, abrasives, strong detergents, solvents, or scouring pads. Stainless steel should be treated with a quality stainless steel cleaner. Follow all label instructions. Do not polish across the grain or in circles.

Section B – Blower Unit

WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury, be sure the blower is turned off before removing filters.

Vent-A-Hood® models that use interior blower units have stainless steel baffle filters located inside the hood. The filters collect oil/grease from cooking and need to be removed and cleaned on a regular basis. To remove the filter, grasp the knob, push back and down, and then pull the filter forward. Soak the filter(s) in warm soapy water or wash in a dishwasher. To reinstall the filters, reverse the procedure used to remove the filters.

Note: Filter elements cannot always collect 100% of the grease from cooking. Some grease may collect behind the filter, on the blower motor, or in the duct pipe.

Note: All Vent-A-Hood products manufactured since 2016 use LED lighting. Some information below applies only to older, non-LED models.

Halogen Bulbs or LED Bulbs

To remove the bulb, turn it counter clockwise. If the light is difficult to remove, obtain a bulb suction cup from a lighting or hardware store. Replace the bulb with a PAR20 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1130) or with a GU10 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1111B) for newer models.

Fluorescent Bulbs & Starter

Non-covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist up and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken.

Covered fixtures – To remove the lamp, face the hood, remove the plastic cover, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist down and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. Replace the bulb with an 18 inch, 15 watt T8 fluorescent bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1120). Hold the new lamp at each end and rotate it slowly into the sockets until it locks into position.

To remove the starter, turn the starter counter clockwise (when looking into the starter). Replace the starter with a FS-2 type starter (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1105).

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. For an island application, this is considered mandatory. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

• M600 Single Blower (630 CFM) – Under cabinet for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric. Wall mount or island hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and light usage professional style ranges.
• M1200 Dual Blower (1035 CFM) – For larger and heavier use professional style ranges.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely.

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.

Do the dampers open and close freely?

With the filter removed (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the dampers (flaps) and ensure that they open and close freely. If they do not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the dampers from opening. Screws protruding through the duct work are the most common obstruction.

During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood. Screws that are used to connect duct work and transitions extend inside the duct work and may obstruct the dampers from opening.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact your Distributor for additional service/suggestions.